[Onthebarricades] Germany G8 Blockades 7 - long article by David Rovics
Andy
ldxar1 at tesco.net
Wed Jun 13 07:40:27 PDT 2007
http://www.infoshop.org/inews/article.php?story=2007rovics-g8
David Rovics: G8 Warm-Up Tour: Whose World Is This?
Sunday, June 10 2007 @ 07:19 PM PDT
Contributed by: Admin
Views: 158
The riots in Rostock, Germany began around 3 pm last Saturday. In European
riots outside of G8 meetings and such, generally all sides refrain from
using lethal weapons. (If anybody breaks with this tradition - such as Genoa
in 2000 or Gothenberg in 2001 - it is always the police.) The riots on
Saturday were part of a long series of such confrontations around Germany,
around Europe, around the world.
G8 Warm-Up Tour: Whose World Is This?
by David Rovics
June 9th, 2007
The riots in Rostock, Germany began around 3 pm last Saturday. In European
riots outside of G8 meetings and such, generally all sides refrain from
using lethal weapons. (If anybody breaks with this tradition - such as Genoa
in 2000 or Gothenberg in 2001 - it is always the police.) The riots on
Saturday were part of a long series of such confrontations around Germany,
around Europe, around the world.
On one side were many thousands of police brought in from all over Germany,
dressed in space-age green or black riot gear. On the other were thousands
of mostly young men and women, mostly German but including participants from
all over Europe and a smattering of other places, many wearing balaclavas or
bandannas over their faces, most dressed in black.
These events are strangely beautiful, partly like a brilliantly
choreographed modern dance performance with the city as it's stage, partly
like a medieval battle. Many of those who don't wish to be involved leave
the scene in a hurry, many others find some high ground and watch the melee
unfold, and quite a few more try to keep on with whatever they were doing
before the riot started and hope it ends soon.
For months before the event tension had been building, as is standard before
these big convergences. As if following a script, the German authorities
raided leftwing social centers throughout the country looking for people
they described ominously as "terrorists." (What a useful word for anybody
you don't like.) These raids were reported throughout the European press, of
course. The idea is to scare people off from coming to the protests. As
usual, it worked, and the crowds were probably less than half what they
would be if so many people had not been afraid to go.
Police were stopping people driving suspicious-looking vehicles, looking for
gas masks, fireworks, or other things they didn't want at the G8 protests.
Of course, anybody coming in a day early driving a normal-looking rental car
like me had no problems and could have brought anything into Rostock, but if
you were trying to bring some banned item in with a home-made "pull-me-over"
car, or a big bus full of anarchists, you had problems.
But all the efforts of the police were in vain, since one of the most
effective weapons people use in these confrontations are readily available
in unlimited quantities in every European city - cobblestones. The streets
of Rostock were littered with broken cobblestones that young people had been
smashing on the street and breaking into fist-sized pieces to throw at the
cops.
The most impressive part are the modern equivalent of the archers, those
firing flares, lighting up the sky, arcing far over the heads of the crowd
and landing in the packed lines of riot police. Many times the police
retreated, many times they charged, and many times they tripped over each
other in the narrow streets, where their numbers simply couldn't be
accommodated. By the end of the day there were hundreds injured, dozens with
broken bones, including quite a few police.
The day began with my friend Lisa dropping me off at the main train station,
where one of the two opening rallies was to take place. She forgot her cell
phone in the hotel room and it took her hours to drive back to it. For the
whole day it seems the police had shut down most of the roads leading into
the city. Sometimes roads leading out were also closed, but mostly it was
easy to get out but hard to get in.
For days leading up to June 2nd, mostly youthful alternative-looking sorts
of folks were streaming out of the main train station, coming from all over,
then heading purposefully from the train station to the main Convergence
Center or one of the three camps within twenty kilometers of Rostock,
surrounding the small resort town of Helingendam, where the G8 meetings are
taking place as I write. On Saturday morning the crowd kept doubling in size
every ten minutes or so until by 11 am there were tens of thousands of
people, and the same thing was taking place at another site in town for the
other opening rally.
The crowd was a multigenerational collection of people with very diverse
views, but united in the idea that this world could be a very different
place. There were representatives of the massive German anti-nuclear
movement, there were those calling for the G8 nations to end their wars in
Iraq and Afghanistan, or to do something about global warming. There were
quite a few Turkish communists, there were Danish union members, Dutch
squatters, and many, many others with no particular political affiliation or
ideology. Just people who know that things are not as they should be, this
world is not quite the world we want, and these G8 leaders need to be held
to account for the world they have, in so many ways, created for us.
They are essentially asking the question that is as old as what we dare call
"civilization." Whose world is this? Is it for the corporate elite and their
pseudo-democratic governments to rule in the interest of profit, or is the
world's wealth for us all to share more equally? Is our world a place where
we can allow any nation's army to bomb cities in another nation? And when
all this death and destruction is all about oil and control, what then? What
is the appropriate response when our air is being poisoned by coal-burning
power plants, our food and soil poisoned by pesticides, our water poisoned
by nuclear waste, and we're all dying of cancer? Is this how things should
be? If not, how can we change the situation?
One of the speakers was from the MST, the landless peasants movement in
Brazil. They have answered the question of whose world is this by seizing
the land that the rich call their property and they are forming collective
farms. They have chosen to eat and fight rather than to starve and die. The
questions are immediate, the stakes high, and in Brazil, as with many other
countries, much blood has been spilled over these questions.
In modern Europe there have been historic compromises between the haves and
the have-nots, and most people live in relative comfort. The struggles
rarely result in people getting killed these days. But as in the rest of the
world, all over Europe the historic struggle goes on, continually trying to
answer the question in one form or another, is the world here for the
private gain of the few or for the public good of the many?
One of the things that's always so striking about these mass convergences
such as this week of action going on right now in and around Rostock is how
few of the people I know in various activist networks around Europe are
actually there. There were tens of thousands of people present at the big
rally last Saturday, but they clearly represent a small fraction of the
European left. Throughout my tour of Europe leading up to the G8 protests I
asked people if they were planning to go. There were always one or two,
sometimes a few, who were. But most said no, they couldn't get off work, or
they had to take care of their kids, or they were concerned about getting
arrested, or they were on probation from the last arrest, or they were too
broke to afford the train ticket.
Yet here we were on June 2nd, with the big public space in front of the
train station thronged with tens of thousands of people. Behind the stage
for everyone to see were two large banners, proclaiming in German and in
English, "another world is possible." I sang, a German hiphop artist
performed, and then there were several speakers from around the world,
including the woman from MST.
It was a long and peaceful march to the site of what was supposed to be the
main rally, which turned into a smaller rally than the opening ones, as many
people left, others stayed and fought, and a few tried to pay attention to
what was happening on the stage, which kept on starting and then stopping
again depending on what was happening around it.
June 2nd was the main rally against the G8, but the actual G8 meetings are
happening now, with smaller groups (many thousands) based at their various
camps engaging in road blockades and many other different types of actions
to try and prevent the meetings from happening, or at least to disrupt them.
Already the G8 meeting organizers have cut their meetings down from three
days to 1-1/2 days. They presumably have their reasons why they're doing
this, but everyone knows the real reason - fear of us, fear of humiliation,
fear that the world will see them naked, humbled by a few thousand citizens
determined to let them know that their elitist, corporate version of
"democracy" is not ours.
My "G8 Warm-Up Tour" began with a flight to Copenhagen at the end of April.
As soon as I dropped off my stuff in Norrebro I took a walk to the place
that's now being called "Ground 69." 69 Jagtvej was the address of what was
Copenhagen's oldest leftwing social center. Built by the union movement in
1897 and called Folkets Hus - the People's House - it eventually fell into
disrepair and was squatted by leftwing youth in 1982 and called
Ungdomshuset - the Youth House. Since then and until last March it was a
thriving center that included a bar, an infoshop, several performance spaces
including a ballroom with a stage and a great sound system, a kitchen where
thousands of meals were cooked, practice rooms for local bands, and rooms
for all kinds of other industrious and creative activities.
A whole generation of youth had grown up in and around Ungdomshuset. Many of
them had kids who also grew up with the Youth House being a center of their
daily lives, as their parents from the 1980's generation mostly moved on to
other things. In March the anti-terror police landed with helicopters on the
roof of Ungdomshuset, filled the building with tear gas, arrested it's
defenders, and destroyed the building within a week. They had to use masked
construction workers imported from Poland to destroy the building, since
none of the Danish unions would work under police protection, out of
principle.
In the taxi on the way from the airport, and walking down the main street in
Norrebro to 69 Jagtvej, the evidence of the battle for Ungdomshuset - for
the right of the youth to have their house, and more broadly, the rights of
people other than yuppies to exist in the quickly-gentrifying Norrebro
neighborhood - was everywhere. There were thousands of posters carpeting the
city advertising upcoming demonstrations. Ubiquitous graffiti saying things
like, "I still feel like rioting."
Official-looking signs saying "Jagtvej" had replaced many street signs that
used to indicate that you were on another street. But now, evocative of the
end of the film, Spartacus, we are all Jagtvej now. The two numbers that
everyone in Denmark knows as synonymous with Ungomshuset, "69," had replaced
many addresses. My taxi driver was complaining about how much harder it is
now to find the addresses of his customers since last March.
He was also complaining about the riots. Like many Danes, he was sympathetic
with the struggle of the Youth House up until the several nights of rioting
that followed the police occupation of the building.
But many others were either involved with, supportive of, or at least not
particularly bothered by the riots, which were seen by many as a sensible or
at least understandable reaction to the events that led up to them. This was
also evident as soon as I got into the city. Many varieties of Ungdomshuset
t-shirts and hoodies were everywhere, worn by many really young kids who had
probably never seen Ungdomshuset when it existed. Many youth had made
homemade patches saying just "69" or "Ungdomshuset Blir" - Ungdomshuset
Stays - also the title of a song that became a national hit last fall. The
scenes on TV of the riots - and they were well-publicized on national
television - had caught the imagination of many young people, who identified
viscerally with the young men and women battling with the police.
For several days, several neighborhoods in Copenhagen were characterized by
burning barricades made largely of bicycle tires - as with anywhere, you
burn what's available, and in
Copenhagen you can't walk down the sidewalk without tripping over hundreds
of old bicycles on each block. Broken glass, broken cobblestones, tear gas
and sirens were the order of the day. To a very large extent, the youth of
Denmark were on the side of those throwing the stones, not the ones firing
the tear gas, whether or not they were entirely clear on the origins of the
conflict.
It was a shock to see how narrow the new dirt lot was, where Ungdomshuset
had stood. The building was a lot taller than it was wide, I realized upon
visiting Ground 69. But what really brought back the memories of that place
where I have played shows to so many great audiences was when we were
outside the prison where fifteen of Ungdomshuset's defenders were being
held, close to three months after the destruction of the building.
It was there that I came into contact once again with the microphone that
had been used for all of my shows there, and for many other shows as well.
The mike smelled like someone who had not brushed his teeth in years, it was
the worst-smelling microphone I've ever encountered. I suddenly could see
the clouds of smoke, behind which sat or stood a hundred black-clad youth,
listening attentively, or singing or shouting along with me, facial
piercings reflecting the lights.
Every Thursday since the beginning of March, different groups were taking
turns organizing protests and marches with sound trucks through the city.
Many people from the early days of Ungdomshuset have come out of the
woodwork, along with many young kids who had never seen the place other than
in a photograph.
I was in town for several rallies.
On my first real day of gigs, May Day, I sang in the morning in the nearby
town of Roskilde for members of the red-green coalition, Enhedslisten, who
have a number of people in the parliament and are the extraparliamentary
left's biggest ally in parliament. In the afternoon I sang at the
communist-sponsored May Day stage in a big park near Norrebro. In the
evening I was hanging out by a park with anarchist youth and others there to
party for May Day, who had put lots of burning rubbish in the street,
something which has recently once again become a Copenhagen tradition,
particularly since March. Police stayed a hundred feet away. This time
nobody threw anything at them, and they didn't try to clear the street.
One rally and march was on the 69th day since the raid of Ungdomshuset. Many
hundreds of us were marching behind a very loud sound truck, and for the
first time I was able to appreciate techno. It reminded me at the time of
hearing the call to prayer coming from the mosques inside Israel. A very
different social milieu, to be sure, but in both cases there was a kind of
loud statement of existence, this affirming cry of "we're here." People from
Christiania had come and added to this, bringing with them dozens of little
homemade instruments consisting of tin cans and latex formed in such a way
that when you blew into them lightly they would screech with twice the
volume of a good bugle.
The more conservative end of the establishment is often characterizing the
growing Danish youth movement as a bunch of self-centered brats, and with
that in mind, one scene on this particular march was notable. There was a
police "escort," as always, on both ends of the march. At one point they
were suddenly agitated. Not speaking Danish, I didn't know what they were
yelling about, but it was suddenly clear as an ambulance was making it's way
down Norrebrogade. But as soon as the march saw the ambulance coming, with
no need for any prompting, the street suddenly cleared of people and the
ambulance sped through unimpeded.
It was a few days later that I got my first taste of Danish tear gas.
The conservative government in power in Denmark has decided to "normalize"
Christiania. For decades there was a sort of détente between the Danish
government and this 900-person commune in the middle of the city, two blocks
from the Christianshavn metro stop. But since Anders Fogh Rasmussen came to
power this is all changing. He has sent Danish troops to assist the US
occupations of Iraq and Afghanistan (though they are now leaving Iraq). He
and his rightwing political allies in the racist "Danish People's Party"
have turned Denmark into one of the least friendly nations in Europe for
immigrants and refugees. And, among his other crimes against the people, he
has embarked on a project to "normalize" Christiania.
Christiania is a magical place, and is one of Denmark's biggest tourist
attractions. In 1970 it was an old military barracks, no longer being used
as such, and the counter-culture decided to take it over and create a
community on these several hundred acres of land. They cleaned up the land
and the water beside it, fixed up the buildings that were there, and built
many more funky, artistic dwellings. They decorated the land with artwork,
built cafes, restaurants, music clubs, and a very successful bicycle-making
workshop, among other things. They provided office space for activist groups
and a large building was given over to be used exclusively by people from
Greenland. (Still a colony of Denmark, much of Greenland's population has
suffered at the hands of their Danish colonizers and suffer from alcoholism
and other problems.)
The continuing existence of Christiania has been an inspiration for people
around Europe and much of the rest of the world. It is essentially a small
town with no cars, no police, no landlords, no rent, generally bustling with
tourists and residents. Until Fogh's police went in several years ago and
busted the open hashish and marijuana market, it was the only place in
Europe outside of the Netherlands where hash and pot could be bought openly
on the street, in a safe environment. With no police force, hard drugs were
kept out of Christiania by mutual agreement between the residents and the
people running their stalls on what is still known as Pusher Street.
The people of Christiania resoundingly answered the question of to whom the
city belonged by taking land that was not being used and declaring that it
belonged to the people. The buildings had long ago been built and paid for,
why should anyone "own" them? Why pay rent or mortgages for them? Who needs
police or other such services? They pay directly to the utility companies
for their electricity and water. Rather than being a burden in any way to
Danish society or taxpayers, they are a top tourist destination.
But the government apparently can no longer stand this kind of example being
set. They say they want to create a park and "low-income housing." What the
residents of Christiania already have is a beautiful park for any visitors
who care to come, and free housing - but so close to the center of the city,
on property that could presumably be sold for hundreds of millions of
dollars, and Copenhagen's real estate developers are salivating in the back
rooms behind the Prime Minister.
So on the morning of May 14th, after claiming that "normalization"
negotiations with the commune had broken down (they hadn't), police arrived
unannounced with a bulldozer and proceeded to destroy one of 52 houses which
the government wants to destroy, for one reason or another. They're not up
to code, they're built in the wrong place, or whatever.
As the house was being destroyed, supporters of Christiania - including many
also involved with the struggle for Ungdomshuset - started sending text
messages to each other, and within a couple hours there were hundreds of
people there. By afternoon there were hundreds more, and still more by
evening. I got there by around 4 pm, about seven hours after the house had
been destroyed.
I was walking from the metro station towards Christiania and I saw a couple
of women from Ungdomshuset that I recognized. I had heard that the main road
that runs alongside Christiania was completely blocked off by the police,
and it had occurred to many of us that looking "normal" could be a good
strategy for getting through the police lines. These women, however, had
multicolored dreadlocks and facial piercings. I asked them about that.
"We're under cover!" They said. "We're not wearing black!" And it was true.
I hadn't noticed.
The police were still blocking off the road, but there was one smaller road
that went into a residential neighborhood, and they were letting people in
there. From that road you could get into Christiania. As soon as I stepped
foot into Christiania I found myself running with a crowd of people away
from a cloud of tear gas. Groups of mostly young people had made barricades
to keep the police out, and set them alight if the police were trying to
come in that way. The crowds would then stand back and throw rocks and
bottles at the police, who would fire tear gas back. It went on like that
all night. On the roofs of the buildings many people were watching the show,
and trying to be helpful, making noises when police were coming from around
the corner.
This was not the preferred response of many in the Christiania community,
who are coming from a more nonviolent, hippie orientation. The spokeswoman
of Christiania duly distanced herself from the rock-throwing. In response
many youth that I talked to complained that the hippies just weren't
responding. But if they had waited a few more hours they would have seen how
people at Christiania were responding.
Overnight several dozen people built a new, very artistic house on the site
where the house had just been demolished.
A few days later there was what you could call an anarchist-hippie unity
march. I stood on the sound truck, which was a more improvised version of
the ones used by the Ungdomshuset supporters, a more colorful Christiania
version, pulled by a tractor, one of the few motorized vehicles driving on
the narrow dirt roads of Christiania. It was raining, but not too hard.
Behind the crowd of several hundred people was one of the main entrances to
Christiania. On top of an arch that you pass through to get in or out it
said, in English, "You are now entering the EU."
Despite the fact that the house had been destroyed, Christiania felt more
like Christiania than it had in years. Since the hash market was busted by
the police, gangs of cops had been roaming around Christiania nightly,
randomly searching the bags of anybody they wanted to. This kind of behavior
is very unusual for police in Denmark anywhere outside of Christiania, but
ironically, it had become one of the least safe places to smoke weed
anywhere in Europe. That week was different. Thanks to the burning
barricades it had once again become a liberated zone, and people were taking
the occasion to roll and smoke lots of big spliffs. The sound man and I were
feeling good by the time we got to the government building downtown.
There we were met by the other half of the march, the weekly Ungdomshuset
march that the Christiania march was timed to coincide with. The rainbow
flags and the black flags intermingled, punk rock, hiphop and acoustic music
once again on the same stage, completely surrounded by hundreds of riot
cops, who stood around looking mean but didn't do anything.
The new movement for Ungdomshuset was well in evidence, with many very young
kids there along with the more typical teenagers and folks in their 20's. As
with marches every Thursday, there were older folks with vests that said (in
Danish), Parents Against Police Brutality. They were keeping an eye on the
cops at these marches, but not trying to play the unpopular role of
"peacekeepers," just watching out for the cops, and everybody liked them.
One of the people who performed was a woman named Nia, a great singer,
sister of a great singer named Billie, daughter of a pair of legendary
Danish rock stars, Annisette and Thomas Koppel of the band Savage Rose,
generally identified by the 1960's, but still going strong today. Thomas
died unexpectedly of a heart attack not long ago, at the age of 60, and he
is sorely missed by many. Only days before he died he finished a CD of
instrumental music, which rose to #1 in the Danish charts posthumously. He
also wrote something called Message From The Grassroots, a sort of "where do
we go from here" piece, around which many older and younger Danish activists
formed a group of the same name, and their banners and sweatshirts were
well-represented at the rally. (Annisette was also at the rally, but didn't
sing that day.)
The weekend before the house demolition in Christiania I was in Sweden. I
had played at a three-week-long film and music festival in solidarity with
the Palestinian struggle in Malmo, just over the bridge from Copenhagen, and
my next stop in Sweden was further north, in Gothenberg. I was singing at a
rally against NATO. It was the second anti-NATO rally I had sung at in
Sweden, which seems particularly odd since Sweden is not a member of NATO.
But there in the harbor of the lovely, canal-filled city of Gothenberg were
dozens of warships from the US, Britain, Spain and elsewhere. Sweden, like
most places, is a land of contradictions. It is by far the most welcoming
place in Europe for Iraqi refugees, while at the same time it sells large
amounts of high-tech weaponry to the US to bomb Iraq with. In fact, I
understand that per capita, Sweden is the biggest arms exporter in the
world. Officially "neutral," whatever that means, it is a member of the
European Union and has hosted many NATO events.
The anti-NATO rally was the biggest in Gothenberg in a long time, with
thousands of people there by the harbor across from the warships. After the
European summit in 2001 during which a protester was shot in the stomach by
the police with live ammunition, the police were trying to be friendly, but
of course they were there to protect the warships from us, posted every few
feet along the harbor.
Here we had another very privileged European country with a large chunk of
the population concerned and asking basic questions. Why are we hosting a
meeting of an organization that is busily making war with half the Muslim
world? Why are we exporting so many arms to nations at war when we claim
ourselves to be "neutral"?
Unlike some other countries in Europe, Swedes these days don't do a whole
lot of rioting. The same can be said of Norway, which was the next stop on
my G8 Warm-Up Tour.
I had gigs in Oslo and in Trondheim. Trondheim is a city of 150,000 or so,
seven hours on the train due north of Oslo, but not even halfway to the
northern tip of Norway, which is well into the Arctic Circle.
Around both cities could be found posters and graffiti in solidarity with
the struggle at Ungdomshuset. Along with them can often be seen "Blitz
Blir" - Blitz Stays. Blitz is Oslo's answer to Ungdomshuset, another
leftwing punk rock social center that has been in downtown Oslo since the
'80s.
You'll also find posters saying (in Norwegian), "Norway out of NATO, NATO
out of the world." Not long before I got to Oslo, NATO had a meeting there,
and it was met by a small but festive protest which the authorities and the
media were referring to as "violent." It certainly was no riot by Rostock
standards, but there was a bit of fence-shaking and a lot of tear gas.
Because of this, my friend Stein was once again in the news. Since the
heyday of the Norwegian squatters movement in the 1980s, if anything
exciting happens in Oslo, Stein gets the blame for it. He doesn't seek the
publicity, but if there's a protest and he's saying something into the
bullhorn along with many others, more often than not it's his picture that's
in the paper and his words on the television news broadcasts. Walking with
him from the train station to his house and back, about a 20-minute walk
altogether, he was greeted by at least a dozen people, some of whom he knew,
and harassed by one cop who he didn't know.
It was about a year before the NATO meeting when Stein and many other people
were playing support roles for 23 young men from Afghanistan who were doing
a very public hunger strike while camping on the grounds of a large church
in the center of Oslo. The Afghans were asking the people of Norway a simple
question. Is Norway a country where people like them shall be deported back
to war zones from which they had fled for their lives, or a country that
shall give them safe haven?
For 26 days they ate nothing, wasting away in front of the eyes of the
masses of passing shoppers, commuters and tourists. I was in Oslo for a week
or so during that time, spending a good bit of it hanging around the
churchyard. Every day at 5 pm there would be a cultural event for the
Afghans, their supporters, and the passersby. While I was around there were
performances by musicians from all over Asia, Norway and, at least in my
case, the US. I first met the Afghans by playing for them, and realized in
the process to my delight that most of them were quite fluent in English.
It was an eventful week while I was there. The most memorable occasion was
when the police came at dawn one morning to destroy the tents and arrest the
hunger-strikers. I was there with several dozen other supporters, including
many from Blitz, surrounding the Afghans and trying to prevent them from
being removed. As usual, the television crews spent much of their time
following Stein with their cameras to see what he might do or say next. If
they tried to talk to him he'd tell them that the Afghans have a
spokesperson and he'd point to Zahir, a tall, thin, intelligent man of all
of 23 who was working day and night in the position his comrades had chosen
for him.
When the hunger strikers ultimately were taken away by the police and then
released, they all came back and stayed in the churchyard with no tents.
It was a heartwarming moment when soon thereafter the Norwegian Red Cross
came and erected their own tents for the Afghans, and also hooked them up
with running water. The Norwegian parliament then finally said they'd
reconsider each case. After 26 days of not eating this was the best offer
that had been made, and the Afghans decided to end their hunger strike.
Since then, however, Norway has deported many more people to the war zone
that is Afghanistan today, occupied by Norwegian troops along with many
other NATO soldiers.
After riding in the train through the snow-capped mountains and small
villages dotting the landscape here and there from Oslo to Trondheim, I was
met at the train station by activists from the UFFA anarchist social center
and taken to a protest downtown.
Not only was it roughly the anniversary of the hunger strike in downtown
Oslo, but it was also the one-year anniversary of the killing of a young
immigrant from Nigeria by a Trondheim cop. It was a classic story, repeated
ad nauseum in the US. It was almost identical to a story I had heard just
weeks before in Sonoma County, California. The young man from Nigeria had
low blood pressure and had gone too long without eating. In front of the
social welfare office he was feeling delusional and apparently acting out.
If he were a white Norwegian, of course, the cop probably would have
recognized the situation for what it was and sought medical help for him.
Being black, however, he instead strangled him to death.
Over a thousand people there in downtown Trondheim, and over a thousand at
the same time in Oslo, wanted to let the authorities know that this kind of
racism is not OK in Norway.
There also at the rally were many of the Afghans I had met in Oslo a year
earlier. They had chosen that day to embark on a long march from Trondheim
to Oslo to highlight their plight and that of other asylum-seekers who are
daily being deported back to war zones like Afghanistan. I sang for them as
they began their walk. As I write this, they are about three-fourths of the
way to Oslo. Many people were concerned about how they'd do in the very
sparsely-populated, snow-covered mountainous regions that they had to walk
through to get to Oslo, but they assured everyone that they had had lots of
experience walking through snowy mountain ranges escaping their homeland and
getting to Europe. They all made it through those mountains just fine.
That night after the rally in Trondheim I was to play at UFFA's annual
three-day music festival. Before the festival I was talking with one of the
organizers, Bjorn-Hugo, about the differences between the activist scene in
Norway as opposed to other European countries. "It's hard to be very
militant when they keep giving you what you ask for," he explained. For
example, when the old UFFA center burned down by accident, the anarchists
demanded that the government give them another building. The government did.
It's a bit further from the center of town, but it has a bigger backyard
than the last one, and everybody's happy with it.
But the folks at UFFA still have a lot to be mad about. Although the society
is prosperous and nobody's going hungry, Norway is an oil-rich nation that
encourages fossil fuel dependency and global warming. It's a big arms
exporter. Its troops are occupying Afghanistan. And a member of the
Trondheim police force strangled an African immigrant to death last year, to
name a few concerns.
It's summer, and in Scandinavia in general, and northern Norway in
particular, the sun never really sets. It always feels eerily like it's
about 5 pm. Long shadows, a dusky light, but never dark. For maybe a half
hour at about 2 am it almost got dark, but then it started getting lighter
again. When the festival was over, at 4 am, several dozen fairly intoxicated
anarchists - they had been drinking a northern Norwegian specialty called
Kolshk, a mix of moonshine and coffee - marched towards the social welfare
office where the Nigerian was killed. It was only a few blocks from UFFA.
Along with the march, in a shopping cart, they brought with them a toy
wooden police wagon, about a meter tall and a meter wide, big enough for a
child to sit in and pretend to drive. "It's Trondheim. We don't burn real
police cars here," someone explained. They wheeled the toy police wagon up
to the social office, doused it with moonshine and set it on fire.
In the early dawn light, beneath the cloudy sky, the bright red fire and
black smoke was beautiful, and far more dramatic than I had imagined burning
a toy police car might be. A couple of real police cars circled us but
didn't do anything provocative like get out of their cars or anything . . .
The fire department responded with impressive speed, looking like they had
just gotten out of bed and thrown their gear on, and were not happy to be
awoken so early for no good reason. They dutifully put out the fire, turning
the black smoke white, leaving a smouldering toy police wagon still sitting
in the shopping cart.
Without missing a beat, folks bid the social office adieu and wheeled the
cart back to UFFA. Some of them climbed onto the roof and planted the
partly-burned, still-smouldering toy police wagon on top of the chimney for
all passersby to see. I suspect the partly-blackened police car atop UFFA
will be staying there for quite some time.
"From dreaming comes knowledge." Armand was quoting an ancient Arab writer.
I was in the Netherlands, starting the Holland leg of my tour. Armand and I
were backstage at the ACU club in downtown Utrecht, smoking big spliffs.
"What kind of weed do you recommend I get at the coffeeshop down the
street?" I asked. He looked at me skeptically. "I don't touch the stuff from
the coffeeshops. I only smoke outdoor organic."
The Netherlands is now the only country in Europe where you can buy pot and
hash over the counter in coffeeshops (since the Danish police put an end to
Pusher Street in Christiania). It hasn't always been that way in Holland,
though, and Armand remembers those days well. When he was a young man in the
late 1950s he first smoked cannabis with some folks from the Carribean he
met at the harbor in Belgium, and he's been a proponent ever since.
In the '60s Armand became a household name in Holland and Belgium (the
Dutch-speaking world, you could say). As in Denmark, the US, and much of the
world, it was a time when leftwing hippies like Armand could become rock
stars, and he did. He had many hits, and was known as the Dutch Bob Dylan.
Stylistically there is certainly a resemblance, though his lyrics, from what
I'm told (they're almost all in Dutch), focus largely on cannabis, with
peace and love and other nice ideas thrown in for good measure.
At age 61, with a full mane of long, bright red, dyed hair, and very
multicolored clothing, he can enthrall an audience for hours. He used to
pack stadiums. Now he packs smaller venues, though with significantly larger
audiences than I'd normally get most places, so doing several gigs in
Holland with him was a pleasure for various reasons.
Armand and I were first playing at a G8 informational event, encouraging
folks to go to the protests, talking about what was going to be happening
there, before the music started. The fear tactics of the German authorities
seemed to be crossing borders, since just the week before a hundred
bicyclists were mass-arrested for having an unpermitted Critical Mass bike
ride there in Utrecht. The general consensus was that the Dutch authorities
were looking for names of people who might be going to the G8 protests in
nearby Germany, to pass their information on to the German authorities,
since mass-arrests of bicyclists is not the norm in this otherwise very
bicycle-friendly nation.
That night I slept in a large squatted building only a couple hundred meters
from City Hall, in the center of downtown Utrecht. There had been a big fire
in the building fifteen years ago and the building was abandoned. Taking
advantage of Dutch laws which say that buildings left abandoned for a
certain amount of time can legally be squatted, it was squatted and fixed up
at least to the point where people could safely live in it.
As in cities throughout Europe, real estate prices have gone through the
roof, and abandoned buildings these days are rare, so there are always
palpable tensions between the scruffy squatters and their yuppie neighbors
who otherwise populate the downtown areas. Is living in the city you grew up
in a right or a privilege? You'll find very different answers depending on
who you ask.
The same tensions can be found between those favoring more industrial
development and highways and those favoring more forests, farms, bicycles
and villages.
Sometimes these tensions exist poetically within the same family. My friend
Antwan has been campaigning for many years on behalf of the forests, farms
and villages. Campaigns he's been involved with have gotten quite a bit of
media attention, and he has at times been a bit of a celebrity, in some
sense Holland's answer to England's Swampy or Julia Butterfly in the US.
Antwan's brother, on the other hand, is known for a different reason. He
started a multi-million-dollar business, running a factory in China that
makes plastic trees and sells them to corporations around the world who like
that sort of thing. You just can't make this shit up.
One of the gigs I did with Armand was on the outskirts of Amsterdam, in what
is essentially a small village called Ruigoord.
Ruigoord used to be a small village to the west of Amsterdam, right on the
harbor. Below sea level, like most of Holland, separated from the water by a
dike. There were a hundred or so nice old houses and a big old church in the
village, with farmland and forest surrounding it on three sides.
In the early 1970's the Dutch government decided they wanted to expand the
industrial harbor, make way for more industry, make more money, dump some
more toxins into the air, clearcut the forest and pave over the farmland.
With these lofty goals in mind, they forced the people of Ruigoord to sell
their houses to them, with the intention of destroying this lovely village.
The hippies of Amsterdam, upon hearing about the fate of Ruigoord, thought
rather that the village should stay. They moved in to the now-vacant
buildings and started a thriving community there in 1973, and they - and now
a whole new generation in addition to the original squatters - have been
there ever since.
Until very recently, Ruigoord was a village under constant threat. The
harbor company kept on expanding, taking more and more farmland and forest.
Facing the loss of the last bits of farmland only a few dozen meters from
the edge of the village, in the late 1990's members of the Ruigoord
community and supporters from around Holland acted decisively.
They set up camps on the threatened land. They lived in treehouses and
tunnels beneath the roads, to prevent bulldozers from taking down the trees
or using the roads. Antwan lived in a tunnel day and night for a month, and
was nearly buried alive there when the harbor company ignored the fact that
he was living under the road and tried to drive on it anyway.
"For ten years, every year was the last year for Ruigoord," Armand
explained. But after the campaigns, all the media, and some sympathetic
politicians, recently a Ruigoord was officially allowed to stay. The forests
and the farmland around it are gone, but the village remains. Next door, the
first company to move in to one of the industrial buildings by the new
expanses of harbor was Starbucks. When the wind is blowing the right way,
the acrid smell of roasting coffee beans hangs in the air. Capitalism
stinks, literally.
The occasion for our concert was the annual Ruigoord poetry festival. The
poetry was all really boring (it was all in Dutch). But there were some
fantastic bands in the big church, and Armand and I on another stage
outside. Hundreds of big, sturdy, but lightweight rectangular buoys were all
over the field outside the church. Normally these multicolored box-shaped
things are used to keep ships from scratching up against docks, but somehow
lots of them migrated to the village . . . They make great seats, as well as
fabulous toys for kids, like giant Legos you can climb.
Reminiscent of the Merry Pranksters, there were two buses on the field,
beautiful buses with windmills on top. One was from the older generation,
and on the back, in big lettering of the sort that was used to advertise
Grateful Dead shows at the Fillmore, were the words Amsterdam Balloon
Company. The other bus was the creation of the younger generation of
Ruigoord, and on the front of it were the words, Dutch Acid Family.
Now that Ruigoord has finally been more or less legalized, many from the
community are planning on boarding the ABC bus to go support Christiania
later in the summer. Others were planning to head to Germany. That was my
next stop.
My first stop in Germany was the Rostock Convergence Center, then an
anti-war protest about 120 kilometers south of Rostock, then back to Rostock
for the G8 protests.
The first G8 rally was still almost a week away, but the Rostock Convergence
Center was already buzzing with activity. Every hour small groups of people
were arriving from all over Germany, Russia, Spain, the US, all over. The
Convergence Center was a big old disused school building, but what it had
become was unmistakable. Political art and graffiti was everywhere. A large
banner hung from the top floor proclaimed "kein mensch ist illegal" - no one
is illegal.
Inside the building were posters, announcements and proclamations from all
kinds of different groups, each playing their part in making these protests
a historic event. Without any central leadership, the place had the familiar
atmosphere of a beehive. There were those organizing the massive undertaking
of feeding organic vegan food to thousands of people each day. There were
those organizing anti-racist actions against eastern Germany's sizable Nazi
skinhead population. There was the Clown Army planning their own unique
disruptions to business as usual. There were the techies setting up
computers with high-speed internet access. There was the legal team, the
people organizing shuttles to drive everyone to various locations in the
area, and of course many groups making plans for a multitude of direct
actions.
I played an acoustic show there at midnight. The next day I went to visit
the camp in the small town of Reddelich. Reddelich is a farming community of
150 people or so fairly close to the resort town where the G8 meetings were
to take place. When I first visited the camp there were maybe a hundred
people there setting up tents, digging latrines, rigging up electricity,
preparing the kitchen for thousands of people who would be coming, and so
on. I talked to the cultural working group who happily scheduled me in to do
a show on June 1st at the bar, then I headed out to Hamburg.
Hamburg is a beautiful city where I have spent a lot of time over the years.
I visited friends there, and caravaned with some of them to a small town 120
miles south of Rostock, where local people have been in a legal battle with
the German government over the fate of a large chunk of land which used to
be a military practice area for the Soviet military.
Since the wall fell this area of land which was once covered with dust and
Soviet tanks has now turned back into a lovely forest, and the people in the
area want to keep it that way. The German government, after some talk of
turning the land into a park, have in more recent years been talking about
once again using it as a practice bombing range.
Once again the familiar theme, the familiar question which can be found
everywhere you look - whose world is this? As is so often the case, the
people and the government are at odds.
The military typically uses pyramid-shaped targets for their bombing
practice, and the people there had small and large pyramids they had made,
with the slogan on them and on signs all over the place, "every target is a
home."
After spending the night at a pristine campground by a lake near the
prospective bombing range, I spent the morning talking to folks who are
veterans of the anti-nuclear movement. Hearing about villages in the
Wendtland region where there is a nuclear fuel processing plant, villages
where the farmers have become very politicized, not just about the dangers
of nuclear power in their backyard, but about the bigger realities of who
shall control our planet's destiny.
I remember visiting the Wendtland region just before the G8 protests in
Italy seven years ago. In small farming villages I passed signs wishing
people luck at the protests in Genoa. I heard stories of the unusual
creatures of the area, the giant moles that mysteriously dug huge holes
beneath the railroad tracks to prevent the nuclear transport trains from
moving, or at least to delay them massively. For many years it has gotten to
the point that tens of thousands of police are necessary to allow the train
to make their way across the country.
When tens of thousands of police arrive in the area, people know a transport
is coming, and soon there are far larger numbers of farmers as well as
activists from across Germany there to lay down on the tracks, dig holes
beneath them, flood them with water, cut them with saws, block the roads
with tractors to make police movements very difficult, and so on.
The nuclear transport is a ritual that goes on every year, but this year
it's not happening, apparently because the police throughout Germany are too
busy keeping the G8 meetings from being shut down instead.
After a festive rally outside of what is known as the Bombodrom - the land
where the government wants to do their target practice - people headed in to
camp on the land illegally and be arrested. The arrests never came, however,
perhaps because the German police had other things to worry about further
north.
After the rally ended and folks were headed into the forest to set up camp,
others of us headed up to Rostock. Most of the rest were planning to head
there the next morning. I sped down the highway with a car full of
anarchists from England, Belgium and the US that I had picked up, and made
for the Convergence Center.
As I had anticipated, it was jammed with people and full of activity and
anticipation. Everything was in high gear. Information was flying around
about who was being stopped on the highway, which borders were being closed,
who was being turned away from Denmark or Holland, were the police in one of
the camps or not, which roads were open in the city, how many people were
still being held from a protest the day before in Hamburg, how many arrests
had their been at an anti-Nazi protest nearby, and so on.
With another car full of people I headed out to Reddelich Camp. It was June
1st. The camp looked nothing like what I had seen only a few days before.
What had been tents had turned into buildings made of pallettes and other
pieces of found wood or downed trees dragged out of the forest. Near the
bustling tent-turned-building where I did my concert, people had built a
huge children's play area, including a merry-go-round type thing which was
fit for an amusement park. Eight people (kids or adults) could fit on the
eight seats that surrounded a large pole with ropes connected to each seat.
Once other people pushed it clockwise so the ropes were wound up around the
pole, it could spin fantastically for five minutes or so on it's own.
Nearby was a very impressive jungle jim kind of thing. The kitchen was in
full swing, feeding thousands of people. There was a welcome center to help
people orient and figure out how to plug in to what was happening. There was
a building with computers with broadband internet access, and many, many
more structures that I didn't have a chance to investigate.
Hundreds of people were milling about at the bar by the time the sound
system and the improvised mike stand was constructed, at 11 pm. One friend
of mine there from the US was skeptical about whether this crowd of mostly
anarchist youth was going to be interested in some guy with an acoustic
guitar, when it might be assumed that many of them were more into punk rock.
As soon as I started strumming, though, the milling crowd turned instantly
into an attentive audience, and suddenly I recognized people I knew from all
over Europe and North America. There they were, people I had just recently
seen in Utrecht, Gothenberg, Copenhagen, and other folks I hadn't seen in
months or years from England, Belgium, Berlin . . . And, as always at these
mass convergences, mostly just lots of good people I had never met before.
I headed back to town in the wee hours of the morning to get some sleep
before heading to the train station for the big rally. I thought about the
jaded leftists I've known who say these mass convergences are pointless, and
how completely wrong they are for saying this.
Whatever did or didn't happen in Heilingendam this week, thousands of people
from all over the world have worked together, marched together, sat in
together, made new friends, and they'll be bringing these connections and
these experiences home with them. Whether the G8 meetings were seriously
disrupted or just inconvenienced, the authorities and the world at large has
once again had to take notice.
All is not well in paradise, and just who calls the shots, and in whose
interests, is not at all set in stone. Whether refugees shall be welcomed or
shunned, whether countries shall export arms or build windmills, whether
forests shall be forests or bombing ranges, whether villages shall be
villages or industrial harbors, whether recreational drug users shall be
productive members of society or shall be thrown away in prison, these are
all matters of life or death, and these matters are by no means decided.
Democracy is in the streets, in the big cities, the small towns, the
forests - but not in the seaside resorts. Sometimes - often - governments
are compelled, forced to listen to their people, especially when the people
shout loud enough, long enough, sit down in the streets and refuse to move.
And sometimes when so-called democracies feel they must defend themselves
with armies of riot police, the cobblestones get broken. They can be
replaced.
David Rovics is a singer-songwriter who tours regularly throughout North
America, Europe, and occasionally elsewhere. Read other articles by David
(http://www.dissidentvoice.org/author/DavidRovics/), or visit David's
website (http://www.davidrovics.com/).
More information about the Onthebarricades
mailing list